The New, Improved and Chocolate Madeleine Recipe

By now I have tried many recipes for the madeleine, as it is the quintessential cookie for service at Proust Support Group functions. In spite of all the years I have spent supporting myself with my culinary abilities, I have found all these recipes, to one degreee or another, troublesome. They either take too much beating, or stick easily to the pans, or come out with crusty, slightly browned edges that chip in the transfer process from pan to rack to plate.

When Monroe Pastermack brought these lovely, perfect-looking and very delicious madeleines to the last Proust Wake, he shouted over the heads of the crowd that this recipe was really easy. Of course I had to try it myself.

Les Madeleines de Commercy

2 extra large eggs, beaten 2/3 cup sugar 1 cup all-purpose flour, dry measure, exactly 1 stick (4 oz) butter plus 1 1/2 Tbsp, for pans pinch of salt 1/2 tsp vanilla extract grated rind of 1/2 lemon 3 drops lemon juice (or 2 of lemon and 2 of bergamot)

For buttering pans: 1 1/2 Tbsp. melted butter and 1 Tbsp. flour

2 Madeleine pans each with 12 depressions 3 inches long.

All ingredients must be tepid to prevent the melted butter from congealing in the batter before it has blended as it should.

Measure 3/4 of the eggs into a mixing bowl with the sugar and the flour, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon to blend into a heavy cream; if it's very stiff, beat in a droplet or so of the remaining egg. Set aside for 10 minutes. Meanwhile melt all of the butter in a saucepan, and let it boil until it begins to brown very lightly. Blend 1-1/2 Tbsp into the bowl with the Tbsp of flour, and reserve. Stir the rest of the browned butter over cold water until cool but still liquid. Finally, beat the remaining bit of egg into the batter, and stir in the cool butter. Stir in the salt, vanilla, grated lemon rind, lemon juice and bergamot (if you have any). Cover the batter and set aside for 1 hour (or longer). Using a pastry brush, paint the Madeline cups with a light coating of the browned butter and flour mixture, wiping any pools that form in the bottom of the molds; set aside (refrigerate in warm weather).

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. After its hour-long rest, the batter will be fairly stiff. Using a spoon and a spatula, put a generous tablespoon of batter into each Madeleine cup; do not spread it out. Bake in the middle of a preheated oven for about 15 minutes. Batter will spread out to fill thecups, and will gradually swell up into a hump in the middle. They are done when lightly browned around the edges, and when they begin to shrink very slightly from the molds. Unmold onto a rack. When cool wrap airtight and freeze if they're not to be served immediately.

My first comment about this recipe, and any other madeleine recipe, is the importance of properly buttering the pans. Use a pliant brush, and take care not to miss a single cranny. Butter them as you would brush your teeth after a frightening visit to your dentist. And this butter-flour mixture should probably be used immediately; if left to sit for an hour it turns into concrete, and must be left over the heating oven to return to spreading consistency.

This recipe was, in fact, considerably easier, and I made it several times over a week to test the process. On one try, I was able to create the chocolate variety, requested by Miss Leslee and suggested by Monroe. When measuring the flour, start filling the cup with two tablespoons of cocoa, then fill it with flour, leveling for exactitude.

If you really want to make this process easy, break down and get those teflon-coated madeleine pans!

P Segal